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We made it!  We made it!  We made it!
In our never-ending search for hardness of core, Greer Gurganus and I decided to bike a 660-kilometer route from the northern border of Togo to Lomé, and we are finally here!  It was a great trip and we are ecstatic to have done it.  We are not even upset to have gotten an e-mail from our boss that we don't get paid for the seven days it took us--hey, what's $52.50 when you've got a story like this to tell!  Speaking of that story, I will put up the Tour de Togo page again when I get it updated.  Then you can judge whether we have even a hope of ever calling ourselves hard-core.
For the moment, Greer and I are in Lomé.  We have checked ourselves into the hot-water-showers hostel, taken a 2-hour nap under the air conditioning in the PCV lounge, and inhaled a couple of pastries.  Our plans for the rest of the day include eating as much delicious food as we can (hey, if Peace Corps demands that we take vacation days for what we think should rightly be called an étude du milieu, then we're gonna eat like it's a vacation!), preparing for our victory brunch tomorrow at the luxurious Sarakawa Hotel, and perhaps plopping down on the beach to even out the bike-shorts tans we've both acquired. Life is good, very good. 
In case I don't have a chance to update again before then, have a Happy New Year, everyone!  I have to admit that this past year might be hard to beat, but I am always willing to try.


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